Pumpkin Treat Bags

Let's begin by saying, Ummmm, CUTE!

I know it's looked down upon to toot your own horn but Common!? They are cute.

Can you believe I made 30 of these in a week?

That's how this pattern came about. I'm a pretty creative person, so when I signed up to help organize the Halloween party for my daughter's preschool party I was excited to see how I could pitch in.

We all had stations we had to manage and I thought what a great idea to have cute little bags that the kids could keep all their Halloween treasures in. So I came up with these. Honestly, 30 was a lot, but I had a lot of fun making them and even more fun watching their faces when they got them. There is something so wholesome and humbling about a child when they recieve something handmade. I was glad to have given them that.

What you will need

Yarn: #4 medium weight yarn. I used Premier “Just Yarn”; 109% Acrylic; 5oz; 252yds; main color in Orange, handle color in Forest Green.

You can get all the yarn for this project at Premier Yarn!

Hook(s): 5mm H-8. I used my Furls Odyssey

Yarn needle

Two cute buttons for attaching the handle to the pumpkin.

Scissors

Let's talk fiber!

If you need to substitute with an other yarn and are not sure what to look for here are some tips...

What you will look for between labels

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as Acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so me be more difficult to compare.

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

Ch- chain

Slst-slip stitch

Sc- single crochet

Scblo- single crochet back loop only

Hdc- half double crochet

Hdcblo- half double crochet back loop only

Ok so on to the pattern:

In orange Ch21.

Row 1: 3sc, 11hdc, 6sc, ch1, turn <20>

Row 2: 6scblo, 11hdcblo, 3scblo, ch1, turn.

Row 3: 3scblo, 11hdcblo, 6scblo, ch1, turn.

Rows 4-30: Repeat rows 2 and 3.

At the end of row 30, work one sc in every row end, ch1. Join the long ends together by slip stitching the beginning chain to the blo of the last row. Sc every other row of the bottom. Fasten off, leave a tail long enough to whip stitch the back loop of each sc just worked on the bottom edge, pull taught to close the bottom, fasten off and weave in tails, turn inside out.

Handle:

In green Ch2, sc8 in 2nd chain from the hook, sl st to 1st sc; ch30 (or desired length), ch 2 more sc8 in 2nd chain from the hook, sl st to 1st sc; sc3 in 1st chain, sc3 in each chain across. The chain will begin to curl, fasten off weave in ends.

Finishing:

Using the same color yarn as the handle, sew the button and handle to the pumpkin. Weave in all ends.

Visit my store to purchase the fully loaded downloadable version of this pattern! Complete with start template cut out, and photo tutorials.

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

Try these fun patterns too!

Thank you to Bearye.com for hosting this amazing event. I have participated in each one of her blanket CALs and have loved each one of them! The designers that Claire gathers for these events are so talented and creative. I am so blessed to be able to work along side of them

As a reminder you can get the other squares that have been released here. If you are not the blog hopping type, no worries, you can get all the squares for a massive discount here.

Purchasing the squares as a bundle gets you all the premium PDF patterns for each square on the day's they are released. This means that if you purchase today you will receive the squares that are released up to today. BUT not to worry because each of the following day's you will get that day's premium PDSF pattern delivered to you through SendOwl.com

I hope you are enjoying the Hope in the Holiday's blanket CAL.

Pin me for later!

What you will need

Yarn:  I used KnitPicks Mighty Stitch, #4 worsted weight, 80% acrylic 20% wool (this yarn is light for a worsted weight yarn). The abbreviations in the parenthesis is what is used in the pattern to represent which color to work with.

You can get all the yarn for this project at We Crochet!

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Spruce (SP)
○ 1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in White (WH)
○ 1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Silver (SL)

Here are the other colors you will need for the other squares of this CAL

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Oyster (O)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Spruce (Sp)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Black (B)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Chocolate (Ch)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Silver (S)

Hook(s): 5mm H-8. I used my Furls Odyssey

Yarn needle

Blocking board or something to pin the square to

Pins (24 minimum) for pinning the square to board

Scissors

click here to go to bearrye.com and get the coupon code for your free pdf copy of this pattern for December 2nd only!

Let's talk fiber!

If you need to substitute with an other yarn and are not sure what to look for here are some tips...

What you will look for between labels

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as Acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so me be more difficult to compare.

You can read more about this in my blog post for Happily Hooked Magazine!

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

St- stitches

Ch- Chain

Sc- single crochet

Knst- knit stitch

Point Pin- the pin that marks the out points of the star

“V” Pin- the pin that parks the inner V point of the star

Gauge and measurements.

16 st x 21 rows of knit stitch= 4X4” 10cm

W- 8”
H- 8”

Other things you should know before starting...

The chain at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.

The Knit stitch is a single crochet worked between the legs of the stitch below.

White sides of the star will always be to the left of the point pin

Silver sides of the star will always be to the right of the point pin.

When embroidering the star keep your tension relaxed. You want the yarn taught but not pulling so that the square loses its shape. Some shape loss is ok as this can be fixed with blocking but not a lot.

Don't forget to get your coupon code from bearrye.com for your free pdf for December 25th only!

Okay let's go!

Row 1- In SP ch31; 2sc in 2nd chain from the hook and across; ch1, turn. (30)

Row 2-42- Knst in each st across; ch1, turn.

Pin your square to a blocking board or surface of your choice.

Pin the star at each point (8) and each inner “V” point (8), and two pins at the center with a little space between them.

I know this looks crazy right now but take a deep breath and go one step at a time.

Next, cut a comfortable length of WH to work with, and with your yarn needle insert from underneath your square at one of the points.

Pull through without pulling the yarn completely out (secure tail with tape if desired). Rotate the board and reach the yarn to the exact opposite point pin (be sure to insert the needle to the left of the point pin).

Now, look at the center two pins and compare yours to my picture above. Thread your yarn between the two center pins as I have. Keep these pins between the two colors as you move from point to point to keep the two colors separated throughout embroidering your star.

After doing 2 passes with the White yarn switch to the Silver and repeat.

As you continue making passes and switching colors work your insert points down toward the “V” pin, see picture below for visual of what this looks like.

When you reach the “V” pin, thread the color you are working with through the center at the junction point of the two colors (this will ensure the two colors do not blend and cross once the pins are removed.

Then reach the yarn to the next point pin you wish to make. Move your center pins so that they will separate the colors as they did with the first points.

Continue working around for each point. Once you have finished all the points of the star, feel free to add more to points you feel need extra yarn. When doing this be sure to pass the yarn needle through the middle of the colors where they intersect and preferable on the same layer you wish to add to.

When you are happy with the outcome of the star work one or two passes between the intersection of the top layer of colors to keep them in place after removing the pins.

Insert the yarn needle one last time and through the back of the square. Remove all pins, turn the square over and tie off all loose ends. Weave in any visible ends, attach square to the other squares of this blanket CAL and Enjoy!

Want even more?

Get the entire pattern bundle for this CAL at a major discount here! Each day you will be able to download the next square in this series!

Visit my store to purchase the fully loaded downloadable version of this pattern! Complete with start template cut out, and photo tutorials.

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

Try these fun patterns too!

Welcome to day 5 of the Hope in the Holiday's blanket CAL. Thank you to Bearye.com for hosting this amazing event. I have participated in each one of her blanket CALs and have loved each one of them! The designers that Claire gathers for these events are so talented and creative. I am so blessed to be able to work along side of them

Today's square is a filler square. Sometimes it is nice to just wind down a bit and do some crocheting that does not require a whole lot of time or attention. So lets do that today...

As a reminder you can get the other squares that have been released here. If you are not the blog hopping type, no worries, you can get all the squares for a massive discount here.

Purchasing the squares as a bundle gets you all the premium PDF patterns for each square on the day's they are released. This means that if you purchase today you will receive the squares that are released up to today. BUT not to worry because each of the following day's you will get that day's premium PDSF pattern delivered to you through SendOwl.com

I hope you are enjoying the Hope in the Holiday's blanket CAL hosted so far, Claire has certainly done an amazing job getting us all together and the squares for this CAL will not disappoint!

Pin me for later!

What you will need

Yarn:  I used KnitPicks Mighty Stitch, #4 worsted weight, 80% acrylic 20% wool (this yarn is light for a worsted weight yarn). The abbreviations in the parenthesis is what is used in the pattern to represent which color to work with.

You can get all the yarn for this project at We Crochet!

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Love Letter (LL)

Here are the other colors you will need for the other squares of this CAL

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Oyster (O)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Spruce (Sp)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Black (B)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Chocolate (Ch)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Silver (S)

Hook(s): 5mm H-8. I used my Furls Odyssey

Yarn needle

Scissors

click here to go to bearrye.com and get the coupon code for your free pdf copy of this pattern for December 2nd only!

Let's talk fiber!

If you need to substitute with an other yarn and are not sure what to look for here are some tips...

What you will look for between labels

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as Acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so me be more difficult to compare.

You can read more about this in my blog post for Happily Hooked Magazine!

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

St- stitches

Ch- Chain

Sc- single crochet

Gauge and measurements.

gauge is not overly important for this square, just as long as it is 8X8" to match your other Hope in the Holiday's square's, then you are good.

W- 8”
H- 8”

Other things you should know before starting...

The chain at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.

Don't forget to get your coupon code from bearrye.com for your free pdf for December 2nd only!

Okay let's go!

Row 1- ch41 (or desired amount in multiples of 2); 2sc in 2nd ch from the hook; *sk1, 2sc in next*, repeat from * to * across; ch2 turn. (40)

Row 2-40: sk1, 2sc in next

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Add a border of single crochet to clean up the edges and also makesit easy to attach to the other squares

Want even more?

Get the entire pattern bundle for this CAL at a major discount here! Each day you will be able to download the next square in this series!

Visit my store to purchase the fully loaded downloadable version of this pattern!

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

Try these fun patterns too!

When I was growing up my mother painted folk art. My fondest memories are of her pulling out the seasonal decorations and always feeling so blessed that she made most of what made our home feel so welcoming and cozy. One of the pieces she made was of St. Nicholas in his sleigh with the words, “All Hearts Come Home for Christmas”. It was one of my favorites, and every time I saw it, I knew I was home.

I wanted to bring this experience to you, so, thanks to Claire at Bearye.com and her amazing holiday blanket CAL’s I can do that. I hope this square when combined with its mates, brings you as much warm and fuzziness as my memories do for me. You can find the remainder of the blanket squares here.

Hope everyone enjoys the Hope in the Holiday's blanket CAL hosted by Bearrye.com, Claire has certainly done an amazing job getting us all together and the squares for this CAL will not disappoint!

Today is the kickoff of the Hope in the Holidays blanket CAL, and I'm up first with "Hearts for Christmas". You can find the next patterns in this CAL at Bearrye.com. There you will find links to all the free blog posts containing the square contributed by that designer.

OR! You can go the easy route and purchase all the patterns by clicking the button below. Each day you will be able to access the next pattern in line without having to jump from place to place. The choice is up to you!

Pin me for later!

With 2020 coming to a close (thank goodness), what better way to celebrate this time of year than with a great project to curl up on the couch with and remember all the things that make this time of year so great!

What you will need

Yarn:  I used KnitPicks Mighty Stitch, #4 worsted weight, 80% acrylic 20% wool (this yarn is light for a worsted weight yarn). The abbreviations in the parenthesis is what is used in the pattern to represent which color to work with.

You can get all the yarn for this project at We Crochet!

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Oyster (O)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Spruce (Sp)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Love Letter (LL)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Black (B)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Chocolate (Ch)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Silver (S)

Hook(s): 5mm H-8. I used my Furls Odyssey

Yarn needle

Scissors

click here to go to bearrye.com and get the coupon code for your free pdf copy of this pattern for December 2nd only!

Let's talk fiber!

If you need to substitute with an other yarn and are not sure what to look for here are some tips...

What you will look for between labels

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as Acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so me be more difficult to compare.

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

St- stitches

Ch- Chain

Sc- single crochet

Special Stitches

ScO- single crochet with oyster. Crochet using this color when instructed using your preferred color changing method. 

ScCh- single crochet with Chocolate. 

ScSp- single crochet with Spruce (green).

ScLL- single crochet with Love Letter.

Gauge and measurements.

16 st x 20 rows of sc= 4X4” 10cm
W- 8”
H- 8”

Other things you should know before starting...

The chain at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.

Color changes are indicated by the abbreviations for each color described in the special stitches section above.  You will see the next stitch with the color incorporated in the abbreviation, so be sure to look ahead to see what color comes next.

Use the color changing method you prefer most. If color changing is new to you there are many tutorials on you tube.

Stitch totals for each row are found between ( ).

The background, the tree and the heart are crocheted in single crochet. Then the lettering, garland, silver tree topper, and snow are added after as cross stitch and surface crochet.

Odd row numbers are worked on the right side of your square

Even row numbers are worked on the wrong side of your square

The first row of the heart is worked on the right side of your square

Don't forget to get your coupon code from bearrye.com for your free pdf for December 2nd only!

Okay let's go!

Row 1- with Oyster ch33, sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc across. 

Row 2-4: scO across, ch1, turn. (32)

Row 5: scO15, scCh3, scO14; ch1, turn.

Row 6: scO9, scSp5, scCh3, scSp4, scO10; ch1, turn.

Row 7: scO12, scSp3, scCh3, scSp3, scO11; ch1, turn.

Row8: scO9, scSp2, scO2, scSp2, scCh, scSp2, scO2, scSp2, scO10; ch1, turn.

Row 9: scO11, scSp2, scO2, scSp3, scO2, scSp2, scO10; ch1, turn.

Row 10: scO11, scSp9, scO12; ch1, turn.

Row11: scO10, scSp2, scO2, scSp5, scO2, scSp2, scO9; ch1, turn.

Row 12: scO10, scSp2, scO2, scSp3, scO2, scSp2, scO11; ch1, turn.

Row 13: scO13, scSp7, scO12; ch1, turn.

Row 14: scO10, scSp2, scO2, scSp3, scO2, scSp2, scO11; ch1, turn.

Row 15: scO12, scSp2, scO, scSp3, scO, scSp2, scO11; ch1, turn.

Row 16: scO12, scSp7, scO13; ch1, turn.

Row 17: scO12, scSp, scO2, scSp3, scO2, scSp, scO11; ch1, turn.

Row 18: scO12, scSp7, scO13; ch1, turn.

Row 19: scO14, scSp5, scO13; ch1, turn.

Row 20: scO15, scSp, scO16; ch1, turn.

Row 21: sc15, scSp3, sc14; ch1, turn.

Row 22: scO13, scSp, scO, scSp, scO, scSp, scO14; ch1, turn.

Row 23 & 24: scO32; ch1, turn.

Row 25: scO22, scLL1, scO9; ch1, turn.

Row 26: scO8, scLL3, scO21; ch1, turn.

Row 27: scO20, scLL5, scO7; ch1, turn.

Row 28: scO6, scLL7, scO19; ch1, turn.

Row 29: scO19, scLL7, scO6; ch1, turn.

Row 30: scO7, scLL2, scO, scLL2, scO20; ch1, turn.

Row 31 & 32: scO32; ch1, turn.

Lettering:

The lettering is embroidered around the tree. Use your yarn needle and method of choice to make the lettering. If you feel the yarn is too thick, separate some of the strands to thin out the yarn for thinner lettering.

Garland:

The garland is worked in chains and attached at points on the tree.

Attach yarn in color Love Letter with a sl st to the left side of the tree at row 19, ch 6 or 7, sl st to the right side of the tree on row 16; fasten off pull tail to the back.

Attach yarn with a sl st to the left side of the tree on row 16, ch 9 or 10, sl st to the right side of the tree on row 12, fasten off pull tail to back.

Attach yarn with a sl st to the left side of the tree on row 12, ch 12 or 13, sl st to the right side the tree on row 9, fasten off, pull tail to back.

 Attach yarn with a sl st to the left side of the tree on row 9, ch 12 or 13, sl st to the right side the tree on row 6, fasten off, pull tail to back.

Silver Bow:

For the silver bow I attached silver yarn with a sl st to the tippy top of the tree, chained between 6 to 8 chains then sl st back to the starting point. I continued making chains of 6 or 8 and attaching them to the center again until I was satisfied with the look of the bow.

Want even more?

Get the entire pattern bundle for this CAL at a major discount here! Each day you will be able to download the next square in this series!

Visit my store to purchase the fully loaded downloadable version of this pattern complete with Stitch Fiddle graph that I break down line by line, a full graph and a little tip to help with more seamless color changes!

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

Try these fun patterns too!

So what the heck is this do-hicky? This nifty little pouch is a soap sock. It can be used with bar soap or liquid soap. For bar soap, place the soap bar into the pouch and pull the string to close the opening, get wet and scrub away the day!

For liquid soap, simply apply your desired amount onto the soap sock and lather up as you like! What I love about this though, is I can use my favorite soap in bar form and not feel that icky sticky feeling of soap on my skin after. The scrubby yarn takes it right off!

This is one of my favorite patterns for so many reasons. It is easy to make. It uses the hdc, my favorite stitch. And the outcome is an item that is functional and help to clean up our planet by taking one more plastic loofa out of the landfill.

Don't worry I wont go on and on about how liquid soap is hurting our water supplies, or that loofah and other disposable hygiene tools are going into our landfills. I will mention, however, that a soap sock is washable and dryable so you can use it over and over. Personally, I have a few that I have been using for over a year and they are still going strong!

The Story That Made It Happen

Lets see... How did the soap sock come to be?..

I was at one of my first craft fairs and a customer asked me if I had any plans for making a bar soap pouch. I really didn't have plans for much at that point. I was in the beginning stages of my business working through the surveying stage. Doing the craft fairs was one of the ways I tested my product and skills to determine if what I was offering as a services was something that would be sustainable as a business.

I informed the customer that I was not aware of the item she spoke of but that it sounded like a great idea!

Honestly, it did take a few tries before I was truly happy with the final pattern for the soap sock. I knew I wanted it to be easy so even beginner crocheters could whip these up too. I also wanted there to be little to no seaming at the end. Scrubby yarn is hard enough to work with, never mind having to sew edges together (blahhh). In the end I am very happy with the pattern. They are fun to make and anyone I've given one to says they love them and use them all the time!

What makes this pattern unique?

The Soap Sock is worked all in ONE piece! Yup, that's right, and just a small seam at the end that you can use a slip stitch for insead of having to sew.

The closing cord is another neat feature of this Soap Sock. It is incorporated into the the beginning stitches of the first round so there is not having to thread a piece of yarn or string through your stitches at the end!

What you will need

Yarn: 1 skein Scrub-ology cotton yarn; #4 weight, 100% cotton, 3oz, 125yrd

Hook(s): 5mm H-8

Yarn needle: for weaving in ends

Scissors

Let's talk fiber!

Recently I did a column for Happily Hooked Magazine where I really dug in deep on this very topic. Click the link to see what I had to say.

When it comes to scrubby yarn for soap socks most are pretty the same. I find there are two types.

There is scrubby cotton which you can see here. For scrubby yarn it is soft and gives a nice exfoliation feeling when you wash with it.

Then there is this... 100% polyester, peel your top 3 layers of skin off yarn. Now, don't get me wrong, I use both of types. Choosing the right scrubby yarn for your purposes is important and must be weighed and measured for the outcome is the end game. (I'm being very sarcastic here).

To put it short, if you are wanting a nice bath or shower that will leave you feeling clean and refreshed then the 100% cotton in any brand is the way to go.

However, if you want to take your exfoliation to the next level then the 100% polyester is your new friend.

Both work great for the Soap Sock and both work amazing in the bath or shower.

What you will look for between labels when substituting yarn,

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so may be more difficult to compare.

Finished measurements

Length- 5"/ 10.5cm

Width- 3.5"/ 9cm

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

St(s)- Stitch(s)

Hdc- half double crochet

Check out this amazing amiture video of working the half double crochet

Other things you should know before starting...

Numbers within < > represent the total number of stitches per row. 

Check out these other Green Living patterns

Okay, lets get to the pattern!

Row 1: We will begin with crocheting onto the cinching cord.   To do this, make your beginning slip knot with your scrubby yarn. 

Pat yourself on the back that was hard!  I like to put my bead on now to keep the stitches from sliding off. 

Pull both ends of the cotton cinching cord through the bead and tie off with a knot.  Test the knot to be sure it does not pull through the bead.  Adjust knot size accordingly

Rnd 2-15: hdc around, (25 stitches per round)

Finishing:

Tie off at the end of round 15 leaving a long enough tail to slst the bottom together.  Turn right side out, insert soap and enjoy!

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

Welcome back to the wonderful world of working in the third loop! Last time we went through the beginning steps of working in the 3rd loop with the washboard washcloth.

For a quick refresher, the 3rd loop is the extras loop behind the front loop AND the back loop. I recently came across a post on Facebook where the question was asked, "is the back loop also the 3rd loop?" No! In U.S. terms this is not the same.

Lets take a look.

The same holds true for the single crochet (sc) as well.

I have also seen this referenced as the back bump and the bottom front loop when it happens to fall in the front instead of the back (we will get to this later). To keep things consistent through my designs I will always call this the 3rd loop. Also, when I write stitch using the 3rd loop it will look like this, "(whatever stitch)3lo". For example: hdc3lo, sc3lo, dc3lo, etc. All this abbreviation says is "(whatever stitch) in the 3rd loop only. Example: half double crochet in the 3rd loop only. Please feel free to reach out for more clarification and I will do my best to help you understand this.

The Story That Made It Happen

I wish I had a great story for this one, but alas I do not. My dad, aka Papa, asked me to make him a had like they had in the store so I did. So no this pattern is not original at all, lol.

But! It is useful for getting ready for the Fall Hoodie that is due release next week!

These make great hot pads too!

What makes this pattern unique?

Ok, so I get that this pattern is not new, but there is a technique I use to almost eliminate that bulk at the top from cinching the hat at the end. Read on for more on this...

What you will need

Yarn: one skein Lion Brand, Color Made Easy; 100% acrylic, 7oz/ 200g; 247yds/ 226m. I used black

Hook(s): 6.5mm

Yarn needle

Scissors

Let's talk fiber!

Recently I did a column for Happily Hooked Magazine where I really dug in deep on this very topic. Click the link to see what I had to say.

Color made easy by Lion Brand is a #5 bulky yarn that makes a thick hat. For Papa, this worked great. Most of his hair has migrated from his head, so a thick hat works great for him.

However, your hat may not be for someone needing that much warmth. No worries! This hat is so friendly to change up the yarn! I will give you all the tools you need to make the perfect noggin warmer for your loved one.

In my post with Happily Hooked I touched on some of my favorite yarns. I have to say that my ultimate favorite hat yarn is Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek. This #4 anti pilling yarn is so nice to work with. It's full bodied consistency fills in the gaps that happen when crocheting. The color saturation of this yarn is also so amazing!

If you choose a different yarn from the Lion Brand Color Made Easy, be sure to measure your project. I chose not to use gauge with this pattern due to the simplicity of it, and chose to focus more on size of the hat.

What you will look for between labels when substituting yarn,

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so may be more difficult to compare.

Finished measurements

Length- 20"/ 50cm

Width- 22"/ 56cm

Kids size hat

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

St(s)- Stitch(s)

Ch- chain

Fhdc- foundation half double crochet

Slstflo- slip stitch front loop only

Hdc- half double crochet

Hdc3lo- half double crochet 3rd loop only (see special stitches section)

Sc- single crochet

Scflo- single crochet front loop only

Special Stitches

Fhdc- foundation half double crochet; ch 2, yarn over insert hook in first ch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 1 loop (this is the base chain), yarn over pull through 3 loops (this is the half double crochet). * yarn over insert hook in base ch of previous st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 1 loop, yarn over pull through 3 loops. *

Fsc-foundation single crochet; ch 2, insert hook in first ch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 1 loop (this is the base chain), yarn over pull through 2 loops (this is the single crochet). *Insert hook in base ch of previous st, yarn over, draw through 1 loop, yarn over pull through two loops. *

Hdc3lo- half double crochet in the third loop only. Yarn over, insert your hook into the 3rd loop, draw up a loop, yarn over, pull through all loop on hook.

If you begin your pattern with a fhdc, your 3rd loop will be on the frontside of your work and not the backside. Reason for this is because there is one less turn before you start working in the 3rd loop.

The third loop of a half double crochet can be found on the back side of the stitch. When you are looking at the top of your work (Figure 1) you see the “V’s” you normally work in a hdc. Turn the edge of the work a bit more and you will see the 3rd loop just under the “V”. Figure 2 shows this from a front perspective.

Check out this amazing amature video I made to show you this stich!

Check out these other patterns that use the hdc3lo

Other things you should know before starting...

The number before the abbreviation represents how many times to work the same stitch into the appropriate stitch.  Ex: 2sc = work two single crochet into the next stitch.

The number after the abbreviation represents how many times to work one type of stitch consecutively.  Ex: sc2 = work one single crochet into each of the next two stitches.

Numbers within < > represent the total number of stitches per row. 

Stitch combos are shown within ( ) and worked into the same stitch of the previous row.

The ch-1 at the end of each row does not count as a stitch.

Alternate chain stitch instructions are given below the fhdc instructions.

This pattern is written for a 22" circumference head. If you would like to make other sizes please see the chart below with the measurements you will need to reference.

PreemieBabyToddlerChildTweenWomanMan
9-12"14-16"16-18"18-20"20-22"21-23"22-24"
23-30.5cm35.5-40.5cm40.5-46cm45.5-21cm51-56cm53-58.5cm56-61cm
Measurements based on CYC standards

Check out this amazing amature video I made to show you this stich!

Okay, lets get to the pattern!

Row 1: fhdc55, fsc3, ch2 turn.  <60> (or work the number of stitches you need to obtain the length measurement you want)

Or, ch61, hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc54 across, sc3, slst2, ch1, turn.  <60>

Row 2: slstflo2, scflo3, hdc3lo55, ch1, turn.  <60>

Rows 3: hdc3lo55, scflo2, slstflo2, ch1, turn <60>

Rows 4-56 (approx. 22”)- repeat rows 2 and 3. <60> (work the number of rows you need to meet the width measurement you want)

Finishing:

To seam the hat, bring the two short ends together so that the last row you worked is closest to you. Slst the last row and the beginning row together. If your seam ends with the bottom of the hat, fasten off and weave in you ends. If your seam ends with the top of the hat do not fasten off, continue to the next step.

To cinch the top, determine which side your seam ended, top (go to A) or bottom (attach yarn to the top of the hat seam with a slst, move on to A).

A: If you ended the seam at the top of the hat, draw up a long loop, approximately 12” long. Using your yarn needle, draw the needle and yarn from under the fabric up through the ch1 of each row. When you reach the beginning, pull both ends of the yarn to close the top. Tie a knot to secure, weave enough of the ends to secure the yarn, cut off excess yarn.

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

Try these fun pattern too!

Welcome to the wonderfull world of working in the third loop! There are so magical things we can do with this technique and we will talk about a few of them today.

The Story That Made It Happen

About a year ago I was really into making things that would help out around the home. I still am to some extent but with my ever continuing trip down the rabbit hole that is top down crochet, my attention has been a little diverted from homegoods.

However! Last year I did really well at craft fairs and holiday markets and these little cloths were one of my best sellers. What I love best about them is that they work up so quickly, are easy to make any size, and can be used for so many things. As you can see from the picture here.

If you want to become proficient in this technique and have something useful after this is the perfect pattern!

These make great hot pads too!

What makes this pattern unique?

Absolutely nothing... Moving on

What you will need

Yarn: less than one skein of 100% cotton #4 medium weight yarn. I used “I Love This Cotton”, 100% cotton, 3.5 oz, #4 medium, in color taupe

Hook(s): 4mm

Yarn needle

Scissors

Let's talk fiber!

Ahhhh, yes... the wonderfull world of that is cotton yarn.

As I mentioned above I use I love this cotton from Hobby Lobby. What I like best about this yarn is that it is so soft, but still very absorbent. The downside to it is that it needs to be primed on the first use. Meaning you will have to soak it and squeeze it to get it to absorb the first time you use it.

Cotton yarn such as "Sugar and Cream" is thicker and will result in a larger washcloth in the end. So if you choose this type of yarn you will have to adjust your beginning number of stitches if you want your cloth to be the exact same size as mine.

Personally, I would stay away from anything other than 100% cotton. I have found that cotton blend yarns are less absorbent, and do not tighten as well after washing with the laundry.

Also, if you choose to use these handy dandy squares as a trivet or hot pad, please please, be super careful if you choose synthetic yarns such as acrylic. There is some debate about this, however, acrylic inevitably will melt with enough heat.

What you will look for between labels is,

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so may be more difficult to compare.

Gauge

22 hdc3lo X 8 rows = 4X4” 10cm

To make a swatch, fhdc 22 (or chain 23, hdc in 2nd chain of the hook and across, ch1 turn). *Hdc3lo in each stitch across, ch1 turn.* Continue working the repeat from * to * until you have 6 inches of rows. Measure your 4" of stitches and rows within this swatch.

Finished measurements

Length- 6”; 15cm

Width- 6”; 15cm

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

St(s)- Stitch(s)

Ch- chain

Fhdc- foundation half double crochet

Hdc- half double crochet

Hdc3lo- half double crochet 3rd loop only (see special stitches section)

Special Stitches

Fhdc- foundation half double crochet; ch 2, yarn over, insert hook in first ch, yarn over, draw through, ch 1 (this is the foundation ch), yarn over, draw through all loops on hook. *Yarn over, insert hook in base ch of previous st, yarn over, draw through, ch 1 (base ch made), yarn over, draw through all loops on hook.

Hdc3lo- half double crochet in the third loop only. Yarn over, insert your hook into the 3rd loop, draw up a loop, yarn over, pull through all loop on hook.

If you begin your pattern with a fhdc, your 3rd loop will be on the frontside of your work and not the backside. Reason for this is because there is one less turn before you start working in the 3rd loop.

The third loop of a half double crochet can be found on the back side of the stitch. When you are looking at the top of your work (Figure 1) you see the “V’s” you normally work in a hdc. Turn the edge of the work a bit more and you will see the 3rd loop just under the “V”. Figure 2 shows this from a front perspective.

Check out this amazing amature video I made to show you this stich!

Check out these other patterns that use the hdc3lo

Other things you should know before starting...

The number before the abbreviation represents how many times to work the same stitch into the appropriate stitch.  Ex: 2sc = work two single crochet into the next stitch.

The number after the abbreviation represents how many times to work one type of stitch consecutively.  Ex: sc2 = work one single crochet into each of the next two stitches.

Numbers within < > represent the total number of stitches per row. 

Stitch combos are shown within ( ) and worked into the same stitch of the previous row.

The ch-1 at the end of each row does not count as a stitch.

Alternate chain stitch instructions are given below the fhdc instructions.

Check out this amazing amature video I made to show you this stich!

Okay, lets get to the pattern!

Row 1: fhdc32, ch1 turn. <32>
• Ch33, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc across, ch1, turn. <32>

Row 2: hdc3lo across, ch1, turn. <32>

Rows 3- 15: repeat row 2, at the end of row 15 do not fasten off.

Finishing:

To make the loop, fhdc 15. Bring your hook back to the last stitch of row 15, sl st to that stitch. Fasten off, weave in ends and love your new washcloth!

Or, at the end of row 15, ch15, sl st the chain to the last st of row 15. Fasten off, weave in ends. You’re done!

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

Try these fun pattern too!

This pattern was Tech Edited by Fiat Fiber Arts and tested by volunteers pattern testers.

It's here! The Raven Kimono! Over the past few weeks we've worked hard to learn the Cherry Blossom stitch. The Cherry Blossom scarf introduced you to working this stitch in rows, then you learned how to seamlessly go from one round to the next with CB Infinity Now you can put them both together to make this beautiful kimono!

The story that made it happen

This is Raven. She is sassy, classy, and a bit of a smart ass. Hahaha. I met Raven during my photo shoot for my fall beanie styles last year. She rocked the photo shoot and was so much fun to work with! We became friends and the rest is history.

But what inspired this Kimono was this picture. I was looking for inspiration for a new design. Covid was just becoming rampant in the US and the quarantine had just started. As I scrolled pinterest looking for new stitches to learn, I came across the Cherry Blossom stitch and new at once I had to find something to use it with. Then I saw this photo on Raven's Instagram. The loop was complete! I new exactly what to create next and got started.

I wanted the project to incorporate Raven's style and personality, so I called her up to tell her my idea. She go on board and together, we designed the Raven Kimono.

What makes this pattern unique?

The pattern is truly unique because it uses the same stitch in two different ways. The first way we use the stitch is by working it in rows. These rows create the panels for the back body and front panels.

The second way we use the stitch is in rounds. These rounds are so unique because the stitch allows us to seamlessly go from one round right into the next without having to change the sequence of the stitch.

One more element that makes this pattern unique is how the sleeves are worked directly on to the armhole. Instead of crocheting the arm then attaching at the end, the arm is crocheted right onto the armhole opening giving you more control over the length and width of the the sleeve.

Photo shoot with Miss Sassy Pants

What you will need

Yarn: #3 DK or similar weight yarn.  I used Lion Brand Truboo; 100% rayon from bamboo 3.5ox/100g; 241yd/220m; color Seafoam

Hook(s): 6mm/ J-10

Yarn Needle, Scissors, Stitch Markers, Row Counter (optional)

Two buttons for front closures (optional)

Let's talk fiber!

What you will look for between labels is,

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as Acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so me be more difficult to compare.

What I really love about this yarn

Truboo is one of those yarns where once you get used to it you can't stop using it for everything! It has a beautiful sheen that allows the yarn to slide on and off you hook so nicely. There is very minimal drag so your project works up quickly, and evenly.

It also has a spread effect. This is when the yarn is lightly twisted during production, then when you are working with it the fiber strands spread out and help to form a more full bodied stitch. This also means it splits easily which can be a bit of a pain, but if you are willing to put the time into working with it more and more the payoff is sooooo worth it!

Look at that spread! https://www.lionbrand.com/products/truboo-yarn?variant=32421797953629

The other thing I love about this yarn for this project is the weight. When crocheting with this yarn it feel so lightweight, then you get some rows in and you will start to see how the weight of the yarn accumulates and the piece starts to pull on the stitches giving it the lacey design of the Cherry Blossom stitch.

Here is the Cherry Blossom stitch in Truboo Lavender

Of course there are other yarns you can use. I also made crocheted this pattern using Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek DK. The stitch also has its lacey texture with this yarn due to how fine the yarn is.

Cherry Blossom Stitch in Soft and Sleek DK with 6mm J/10 hook

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

Ch- Chain

Slst- slip stitch

Sc- single crochet

Dc- double crochet

St(s)- Stitch(s)

Yo- yarn over

Rnd- round

Sk- skip stitch(s)

Sm- stitch marker

Sp(s)-space(s)

Other things you should know before starting...

Gauge and measurements.

The gauge for this piece is a bit tricky. But to check to see that your tension is loose enough to get the same meauremnets as I did work a 6X6" square using the pattern repeat.

Place your tape measure, or measuring instrument at the very beginning of a tripuff stitch. measure over 4" or 10 cm. You should be able to count 7 individual puff stitches (or 2 tripuff stitches plus one individual puff).

Next, place your measuring tool at the very bottom of one of the first single crochet of the pattern repeat. Measure from the bottom of that single crochet to 4" or 10 cm. You should be able to count 4 puff rows, these rows include the 3 building rows plus the puff row.

If you are still unsure, then begin the pattern and measure your piece after your first puff row is complete. Compare your measurements to the measurements listed in the pattern.

Making Personal Adjustments

If your feeling that the measurements are just not working for you, no worries. You can easily adjust your sizing by adding or decreasing you starting number by 16.

If you are truly talented with math, ( am am not!) you can try adjusting your staring number by 4 or 8, you will have to be able to adapt to ending with different stitches than what is specified in the pattern.

Change up the sleeves

The sleeves on the pattern are designed to be straight down with no increased flare. The reason I chose to write the pattern this way is because the truboo yarn has such a natural stretch and drape to it that it did not need any increasing. However, if you choose to go with a lighter weighing yarn you may want to add an increase to give your sleeves a little flare for a more flowing appeal.

To do this, work the pattern until the sleeve measures just above the elbow. You will want to be starting a 3dc round. Mark the bottom center of the sleeve with a stitch marker. Continue to work the pattern until you come to the stitch marker. Work 3dc, ch2, 3dc. Continue the pattern until your sleeve is the length you want it. If you still want more flare, you can keep adding increases of 3dc, ch2, 3dc where they will line up with your previous increase. you can also begin your increases further up the arm adding more increases at the bottom center of each 3dc round

Put on those finishing touches...

The front panels are designed to be slightly oversized to give the person wearing it enough to fabric to overlap one side over another. The kimono looks beautiful by itself, or add some extra elegance with a broach, pin, ribbon tie, or whatever your heart pleases!

Don't forget to weave in all your ends too!

Want even more?

Thanks for following along with me. I hope you enjoy making working up this pattern!

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

Try these fun pattern too!

This week is all about the CB Infinity scarf! A few weeks ago I introduced you the cherry blossom and we learned how to work this stitch in turned rows. In this post you will learn to work this same stitch in continuous rounds. Learning to work the stitch this way will get you ready to make your Raven Kimono that is due to release later this month.

The Story That Made It Happen

If you read my last post then you will already know that this is the picture that inspired it all. Sass, class, and a bit of smart ass! That is Raven.

The CB Infinity works up quickly. What I love most about this stitch is how it doesn't get boring, since it is worked over four rows to complete on sequence it will keep you engaged yet not overwhelmed.

What makes this pattern unique?

CB Infinity is step two in learning what you will need to know to crochet the Raven Kimono. It is worked in continuous rounds so you will not join or turn at the end of each round.

I think what truly sets this pattern apart from other patterns is how one round seamlessly works into the next. At the end of one round you will immediately start the next round with the first stitch of the next round and it will actually belong there! So see how this plays out.

What you will need

Yarn: approximately 350yd, #3 DK or similar weight yarn.  I used 1.5 skeins of Lion Brand Truboo; 3.5ox/100g; 241yd/220m; color Seafoam

Hook(s): 3.5mm/ E, Yarn Needle, Scissors, Stitch markers

Let's talk fiber!

What you will look for between labels is,

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as Acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so me be more difficult to compare.

Gauge

10 puff sts / 6 puff rows = 4” / 10cm of worked pattern

To make a swatch begin the pattern and work the row repeats until you have a 6x6 square, measure from the outer most part of the first puff st to the 4”/ 10 cm mark.  Count how many puff sts are within that 4”/ 10 cm.  To measure rows, find the lowest point of the triple puff stitch (tpst); measure from this point to the 4”/ 10 cm mark.  Count the number of puff rows within that 4”/ 10 cm. 

Finished measurements

Length- 20” /51 cm

Width- 4”/ 10 cm

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

St(s)- Stitch(s)

Sk- skip

Ch- chain

Sc- single crochet

Puff- puff stitch

Yo- yarn over

Dc- double crochet

Tpst- triple puff stitch

Sp(s)- space(s)

Special Stitches

Puff (puff stitch)- (yo, insert hook, yo, draw up loop) 3 times in same st or sp, with 7 loops on hook; yo, pull through all loops on hook, ch1. Note: this ch-1 is a closing stitch and not an independent ch st.

Tpst (triple puff stitch)- (puff, ch2, puff, ch2, puff, ch1) all worked in same stitch or space

Other things you should know before starting...

The number before the abbreviation represents how many times to work the same stitch into the appropriate stitch.  Ex: 2sc = work two single crochet into the next stitch.

The number after the abbreviation represents how many times to work one type of stitch consecutively.  Ex: sc2 = work one single crochet into each of the next two stitches.

Numbers within < > represent the total number of stitches per row. 

Stitch combos are shown within ( ) and worked into the same stitch of the previous row.

Stitch sequence repeats are represented within * * and followed by the number of times they repeat.

Okay let's go!

ch 184; being careful not to twist your chain, sl st into the 1st chain, ch1

Rnd 1: sc in same chain sp, ch2; sk3, 3dc in next, ch2; sk3, sc in next, ch2, sk3, 3dc in next, ch2 repeat from * to * around; sc into next sc, place sm, ch1. (continue to move the stitch marker at the end of each round)

Rnd 2: Tpst in 2nd dc of the 3 dc cluster of previous row, ch1; sc in next sc, ch1; tpst in 2nd dc of the 3 dc cluster, ch1; repeat from * to * around; tpst in 2nd dc , ch2.

Rnd 3: Sc in top of 2nd puff of the next tpst, ch2; 3dc in next sc, ch2, sc in top of 2nd puff of tpst ch2; repeat from * to * around, tpst in 2rd dc of next 3dc cluster, ch1.

Rnd 4: Sc in next sc, ch1; tpst in 2nd dc of 3 dc cluster of previous row, ch1; sc in next sc, ch1; repeat from * to * around to last sc of previous rnd, ch2, sc in top of 2nd puff of next tpst, ch2.

Rnd 5: 3dc in next sc, ch2; sc in 2nd puff of tpst, ch2; 3dc in next sc, ch2; repeat from * to * across, sc in last sc, ch1.

Repeat rows 2-5 until the scarf measures 4 inches wide, or until desired width.

Finishing:

Weave in all ends and enjoy!

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

Try these fun pattern too!

This pattern was Tech Edited by Fiat Fiber Arts and tested by volunteers

https://www.facebook.com/vero.espino1

https://www.facebook.com/shelley.merkley

https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.meandbutterflystore.com%2F%3Ffbclid%3DIwAR3gzdEv2UjbJhu393r-fgHebNDMAUVCiCsY06-ejQIt0d2tsOPTfLLNzXs&h=AT0-0lvVTSP_eU0Kpm_zkal96fHuYNf97nHlUxss2UA1qQurT0-gCv3XC_TbEueBNcNynMf2ZkymJywNflGHC24i7lAYvBCjcvKOoZQjS-v9VpIvjjd-PpRfo3JL3h3waQ

Let me introduce you to the cherry blossom stitch. I came across this stitch when I was browsing Pinterest. I love pinterest for finding new stitches! If you really want to boost your crochet knowledge I find the best way to do this is to find a stitch and just start working it! So how did this scarf come to be? Lest go see...

The story that made it happen

Do you remember this woman? This is Raven. A vibrant, friendly, fun loving, adventurous, stunningly beautiful person, inside and out. She knocked this photo shoot out of the park with her spunky personality and courage to show her true self in all the expressions on her face.

I gained a friend that day, and everyday I see her encouraging smile on Instagram. On the day I was struck with the inspiration for the Raven Kimono (coming soon), she posted a picture of herself in downtown and when I saw it I was blown away by what I saw.

Photograph by Kyle Is The Worst Production

Within this smile I see she has an unapologetic fire that says I am me! This smile says I am strong but right now I am sad, worried, and unsure. I see an unbound appreciation for the spontaneous inspiration she sparked in the photographer.

I see love and appreciation of life, and a passion for living. This is when it hit! I looked at my mother, who was sitting next to me, and I said "That's it!"

During the time COVID-19 hit my area I had already locked down my house. My daughter and I have asthma and I did not want to take any chances with so little known at that time. I was stressed, exhausted, and feeling little to no desire to crochet let alone design. This face changed that for me that day. This picture tied it all together, stitch, style, color, everything.

When I began designing the kimono, I asked Raven to be part of the process. I wanted her input for the design so the final piece would reflect her personality and style. Together we came up with the final design. I already knew what yarn I wanted to use, now it was a matter what hook size to use to get the right outcome.

What makes this pattern unique?

This scarf is the first of three patterns using this stitch. Let's consider this as a practice run to the Raven Kimono. Working up this scarf will introduce you to the Cherry Blossom stitch and give you the experience you need to make your own Raven Kimono coming later this month!

What you will need

Yarn: approximately 350yd, #3 DK or similar weight yarn.  I used 1.5 skeins of Lion Brand Truboo; 3.5ox/100g; 241yd/220m; color Lavender

Hook(s): 3.5mm/ E, Yarn Needle, Scissors

Let's talk fiber!

What you will look for between labels is,

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as Acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so me be more difficult to compare.

Gauge

10 puff sts / 6 puff rows = 4” / 10cm of worked pattern

To make a swatch begin the pattern and work the row repeats until you have a 6x6 square, measure from the outer most part of the first puff st to the 4”/ 10 cm mark.  Count how many puff sts are within that 4”/ 10 cm.  To measure rows, find the lowest point of the triple puff stitch (tpst); measure from this point to the 4”/ 10 cm mark.  Count the number of puff rows within that 4”/ 10 cm. 

Finished Measurements

Length- 48” /122 cm

Width- 6.5”/ 16.5 cm

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

St(s)- Stitch(s)

Sk- skip

Ch- chain

Sc- single crochet

Puff- puff stitch

Yo- yarn over

Dc- double crochet

Tpst- triple puff stitch

Sp(s)- space(s)

Special Stitches

Puff (puff stitch)- (yo, insert hook, yo, draw up loop) 3 times in same st or sp, with 7 loops on hook; yo, pull through all loops on hook, ch1. Note: this ch-1 is a closing stitch and not an independent ch st.

Tpst (triple puff stitch)- (puff, ch2, puff, ch2, puff, ch1) all worked in same stitch or space

Other things you should know before starting...

The ch-3 at the beginning of each row counts as one dc, this also means that working into the last dc of a row may mean working into this ch-3.

The number before the abbreviation represents how many times to work the same stitch into the appropriate stitch.  Ex: 2sc = work two single crochet into the next stitch.

The number after the abbreviation represents how many times to work one type of stitch consecutively.  Ex: sc2 = work one single crochet into each of the next two stitches.

Numbers within < > represent the total number of stitches per row. 

Stitch combos are shown within ( ) and worked into the same stitch of the previous row.

Stitch sequence repeats are represented within * * and followed by the number of times they repeat.

Okay let's go!

ch 42

Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from hook, ch2, sk3, 3dc in next, ch2, *sk3, sc in next, ch2, sk3, 3dc in next, ch2* repeat from * to * across, ending with a sc in the last st; ch1, turn.

Row 2:  sc in 1st st, ch1, tpst in 2nd dc of the 3 dc cluster of previous row, ch1, *sc in next sc, ch1, tpst in 2nd dc of the 3 dc cluster, ch1*; repeat from * to * across, ch3, turn.

Row 3:  dc in 1st st, ch2; sc in top of 2nd puff of the tpst of previous row, ch2, *3dc in next sc, ch2, sc in top of 2nd puff of tpst, ch2*; repeat from * to * across to last sc, 2dc in last sc, ch3, turn.  

Row 4:  dc in 1st st, ch1, sc in next sc, ch1, *tpst in 2nd dc of 3 dc cluster of previous row, ch1, sc in next sc, ch1*; repeat from * to * across to last dc, 2dc in last dc, ch1, turn.

Row 5: sc in 1st st, ch2, 3dc in next sc, ch2, *sc in 2nd puff of tpst, ch2, 3dc in next sc, ch2*; repeat from * to * across to last dc, sc in last dc, ch1, turn.

Repeat rows 2-5 until the scarf measures 48 inches, or until desired length. 

Weave in all ends and enjoy!

Thank you to Emily of Fiat Fiber Arts for her amazing Tech Editing skills, and to my pattern testers for volunteering to test this pattern for acuracy!

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

Try these fun pattern too!

Some of the links on this website are affiliate links where if you go through them to make a purchase we may earn a commission. We only link to these companies and their products because of their quality and not because of the commission we receive from your purchases.

© 2021 | Website design and development by Pixel Jam Digital