In Excelsis Natalis

Thank you to Bearye.com for hosting this amazing event. I have participated in each one of her blanket CALs and have loved each one of them! The designers that Claire gathers for these events are so talented and creative. I am so blessed to be able to work along side of them

As a reminder you can get the other squares that have been released here. If you are not the blog hopping type, no worries, you can get all the squares for a massive discount here.

Purchasing the squares as a bundle gets you all the premium PDF patterns for each square on the day’s they are released. This means that if you purchase today you will receive the squares that are released up to today. BUT not to worry because each of the following day’s you will get that day’s premium PDSF pattern delivered to you through SendOwl.com

I hope you are enjoying the Hope in the Holiday’s blanket CAL.

Pin me for later!

What you will need

Yarn:  I used KnitPicks Mighty Stitch, #4 worsted weight, 80% acrylic 20% wool (this yarn is light for a worsted weight yarn). The abbreviations in the parenthesis is what is used in the pattern to represent which color to work with.

You can get all the yarn for this project at We Crochet!

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Spruce (SP)
○ 1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in White (WH)
○ 1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Silver (SL)

Here are the other colors you will need for the other squares of this CAL

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Oyster (O)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Spruce (Sp)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Black (B)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Chocolate (Ch)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Silver (S)

Hook(s): 5mm H-8. I used my Furls Odyssey

Yarn needle

Blocking board or something to pin the square to

Pins (24 minimum) for pinning the square to board

Scissors

click here to go to bearrye.com and get the coupon code for your free pdf copy of this pattern for December 2nd only!

Let’s talk fiber!

If you need to substitute with an other yarn and are not sure what to look for here are some tips…

What you will look for between labels

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as Acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so me be more difficult to compare.

You can read more about this in my blog post for Happily Hooked Magazine!

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

St– stitches

Ch– Chain

Scsingle crochet

Knst- knit stitch

Point Pin- the pin that marks the out points of the star

“V” Pin- the pin that parks the inner V point of the star

Gauge and measurements.

16 st x 21 rows of knit stitch= 4X4” 10cm

W– 8”
H– 8”

Other things you should know before starting…

The chain at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.

The Knit stitch is a single crochet worked between the legs of the stitch below.

White sides of the star will always be to the left of the point pin

Silver sides of the star will always be to the right of the point pin.

When embroidering the star keep your tension relaxed. You want the yarn taught but not pulling so that the square loses its shape. Some shape loss is ok as this can be fixed with blocking but not a lot.

Don’t forget to get your coupon code from bearrye.com for your free pdf for December 25th only!

Okay let’s go!

Row 1- In SP ch31; 2sc in 2nd chain from the hook and across; ch1, turn. (30)

Row 2-42- Knst in each st across; ch1, turn.

Pin your square to a blocking board or surface of your choice.

Pin the star at each point (8) and each inner “V” point (8), and two pins at the center with a little space between them.

I know this looks crazy right now but take a deep breath and go one step at a time.

Next, cut a comfortable length of WH to work with, and with your yarn needle insert from underneath your square at one of the points.

Pull through without pulling the yarn completely out (secure tail with tape if desired). Rotate the board and reach the yarn to the exact opposite point pin (be sure to insert the needle to the left of the point pin).

Now, look at the center two pins and compare yours to my picture above. Thread your yarn between the two center pins as I have. Keep these pins between the two colors as you move from point to point to keep the two colors separated throughout embroidering your star.

After doing 2 passes with the White yarn switch to the Silver and repeat.

As you continue making passes and switching colors work your insert points down toward the “V” pin, see picture below for visual of what this looks like.

When you reach the “V” pin, thread the color you are working with through the center at the junction point of the two colors (this will ensure the two colors do not blend and cross once the pins are removed.

Then reach the yarn to the next point pin you wish to make. Move your center pins so that they will separate the colors as they did with the first points.

Continue working around for each point. Once you have finished all the points of the star, feel free to add more to points you feel need extra yarn. When doing this be sure to pass the yarn needle through the middle of the colors where they intersect and preferable on the same layer you wish to add to.

When you are happy with the outcome of the star work one or two passes between the intersection of the top layer of colors to keep them in place after removing the pins.

Insert the yarn needle one last time and through the back of the square. Remove all pins, turn the square over and tie off all loose ends. Weave in any visible ends, attach square to the other squares of this blanket CAL and Enjoy!

Want even more?

Get the entire pattern bundle for this CAL at a major discount here! Each day you will be able to download the next square in this series!

Visit my store to purchase the fully loaded downloadable version of this pattern! Complete with start template cut out, and photo tutorials.

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

Try these fun patterns too!

Welcome to day 5 of the Hope in the Holiday’s blanket CAL. Thank you to Bearye.com for hosting this amazing event. I have participated in each one of her blanket CALs and have loved each one of them! The designers that Claire gathers for these events are so talented and creative. I am so blessed to be able to work along side of them

Today’s square is a filler square. Sometimes it is nice to just wind down a bit and do some crocheting that does not require a whole lot of time or attention. So lets do that today…

As a reminder you can get the other squares that have been released here. If you are not the blog hopping type, no worries, you can get all the squares for a massive discount here.

Purchasing the squares as a bundle gets you all the premium PDF patterns for each square on the day’s they are released. This means that if you purchase today you will receive the squares that are released up to today. BUT not to worry because each of the following day’s you will get that day’s premium PDSF pattern delivered to you through SendOwl.com

I hope you are enjoying the Hope in the Holiday’s blanket CAL hosted so far, Claire has certainly done an amazing job getting us all together and the squares for this CAL will not disappoint!

Pin me for later!

What you will need

Yarn:  I used KnitPicks Mighty Stitch, #4 worsted weight, 80% acrylic 20% wool (this yarn is light for a worsted weight yarn). The abbreviations in the parenthesis is what is used in the pattern to represent which color to work with.

You can get all the yarn for this project at We Crochet!

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Love Letter (LL)

Here are the other colors you will need for the other squares of this CAL

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Oyster (O)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Spruce (Sp)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Black (B)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Chocolate (Ch)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Silver (S)

Hook(s): 5mm H-8. I used my Furls Odyssey

Yarn needle

Scissors

click here to go to bearrye.com and get the coupon code for your free pdf copy of this pattern for December 2nd only!

Let’s talk fiber!

If you need to substitute with an other yarn and are not sure what to look for here are some tips…

What you will look for between labels

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as Acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so me be more difficult to compare.

You can read more about this in my blog post for Happily Hooked Magazine!

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

St– stitches

Ch– Chain

Scsingle crochet

Gauge and measurements.

gauge is not overly important for this square, just as long as it is 8X8″ to match your other Hope in the Holiday’s square’s, then you are good.

W– 8”
H– 8”

Other things you should know before starting…

The chain at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.

Don’t forget to get your coupon code from bearrye.com for your free pdf for December 2nd only!

Okay let’s go!

Row 1– ch41 (or desired amount in multiples of 2); 2sc in 2nd ch from the hook; *sk1, 2sc in next*, repeat from * to * across; ch2 turn. (40)

Row 2-40: sk1, 2sc in next

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Add a border of single crochet to clean up the edges and also makesit easy to attach to the other squares

Want even more?

Get the entire pattern bundle for this CAL at a major discount here! Each day you will be able to download the next square in this series!

Visit my store to purchase the fully loaded downloadable version of this pattern!

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

Try these fun patterns too!

When I was growing up my mother painted folk art. My fondest memories are of her pulling out the seasonal decorations and always feeling so blessed that she made most of what made our home feel so welcoming and cozy. One of the pieces she made was of St. Nicholas in his sleigh with the words, “All Hearts Come Home for Christmas”. It was one of my favorites, and every time I saw it, I knew I was home.

I wanted to bring this experience to you, so, thanks to Claire at Bearye.com and her amazing holiday blanket CAL’s I can do that. I hope this square when combined with its mates, brings you as much warm and fuzziness as my memories do for me. You can find the remainder of the blanket squares here.

Hope everyone enjoys the Hope in the Holiday’s blanket CAL hosted by Bearrye.com, Claire has certainly done an amazing job getting us all together and the squares for this CAL will not disappoint!

Today is the kickoff of the Hope in the Holidays blanket CAL, and I’m up first with “Hearts for Christmas”. You can find the next patterns in this CAL at Bearrye.com. There you will find links to all the free blog posts containing the square contributed by that designer.

OR! You can go the easy route and purchase all the patterns by clicking the button below. Each day you will be able to access the next pattern in line without having to jump from place to place. The choice is up to you!

Pin me for later!

With 2020 coming to a close (thank goodness), what better way to celebrate this time of year than with a great project to curl up on the couch with and remember all the things that make this time of year so great!

What you will need

Yarn:  I used KnitPicks Mighty Stitch, #4 worsted weight, 80% acrylic 20% wool (this yarn is light for a worsted weight yarn). The abbreviations in the parenthesis is what is used in the pattern to represent which color to work with.

You can get all the yarn for this project at We Crochet!

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Oyster (O)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Spruce (Sp)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Love Letter (LL)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Black (B)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Chocolate (Ch)

1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in Silver (S)

Hook(s): 5mm H-8. I used my Furls Odyssey

Yarn needle

Scissors

click here to go to bearrye.com and get the coupon code for your free pdf copy of this pattern for December 2nd only!

Let’s talk fiber!

If you need to substitute with an other yarn and are not sure what to look for here are some tips…

What you will look for between labels

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as Acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so me be more difficult to compare.

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

St– stitches

Ch– Chain

Scsingle crochet

Special Stitches

ScO- single crochet with oyster. Crochet using this color when instructed using your preferred color changing method. 

ScCh– single crochet with Chocolate. 

ScSp– single crochet with Spruce (green).

ScLL– single crochet with Love Letter.

Gauge and measurements.

16 st x 20 rows of sc= 4X4” 10cm
W– 8”
H– 8”

Other things you should know before starting…

The chain at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.

Color changes are indicated by the abbreviations for each color described in the special stitches section above.  You will see the next stitch with the color incorporated in the abbreviation, so be sure to look ahead to see what color comes next.

Use the color changing method you prefer most. If color changing is new to you there are many tutorials on you tube.

Stitch totals for each row are found between ( ).

The background, the tree and the heart are crocheted in single crochet. Then the lettering, garland, silver tree topper, and snow are added after as cross stitch and surface crochet.

Odd row numbers are worked on the right side of your square

Even row numbers are worked on the wrong side of your square

The first row of the heart is worked on the right side of your square

Don’t forget to get your coupon code from bearrye.com for your free pdf for December 2nd only!

Okay let’s go!

Row 1– with Oyster ch33, sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc across. 

Row 2-4: scO across, ch1, turn. (32)

Row 5: scO15, scCh3, scO14; ch1, turn.

Row 6: scO9, scSp5, scCh3, scSp4, scO10; ch1, turn.

Row 7: scO12, scSp3, scCh3, scSp3, scO11; ch1, turn.

Row8: scO9, scSp2, scO2, scSp2, scCh, scSp2, scO2, scSp2, scO10; ch1, turn.

Row 9: scO11, scSp2, scO2, scSp3, scO2, scSp2, scO10; ch1, turn.

Row 10: scO11, scSp9, scO12; ch1, turn.

Row11: scO10, scSp2, scO2, scSp5, scO2, scSp2, scO9; ch1, turn.

Row 12: scO10, scSp2, scO2, scSp3, scO2, scSp2, scO11; ch1, turn.

Row 13: scO13, scSp7, scO12; ch1, turn.

Row 14: scO10, scSp2, scO2, scSp3, scO2, scSp2, scO11; ch1, turn.

Row 15: scO12, scSp2, scO, scSp3, scO, scSp2, scO11; ch1, turn.

Row 16: scO12, scSp7, scO13; ch1, turn.

Row 17: scO12, scSp, scO2, scSp3, scO2, scSp, scO11; ch1, turn.

Row 18: scO12, scSp7, scO13; ch1, turn.

Row 19: scO14, scSp5, scO13; ch1, turn.

Row 20: scO15, scSp, scO16; ch1, turn.

Row 21: sc15, scSp3, sc14; ch1, turn.

Row 22: scO13, scSp, scO, scSp, scO, scSp, scO14; ch1, turn.

Row 23 & 24: scO32; ch1, turn.

Row 25: scO22, scLL1, scO9; ch1, turn.

Row 26: scO8, scLL3, scO21; ch1, turn.

Row 27: scO20, scLL5, scO7; ch1, turn.

Row 28: scO6, scLL7, scO19; ch1, turn.

Row 29: scO19, scLL7, scO6; ch1, turn.

Row 30: scO7, scLL2, scO, scLL2, scO20; ch1, turn.

Row 31 & 32: scO32; ch1, turn.

Lettering:

The lettering is embroidered around the tree. Use your yarn needle and method of choice to make the lettering. If you feel the yarn is too thick, separate some of the strands to thin out the yarn for thinner lettering.

Garland:

The garland is worked in chains and attached at points on the tree.

Attach yarn in color Love Letter with a sl st to the left side of the tree at row 19, ch 6 or 7, sl st to the right side of the tree on row 16; fasten off pull tail to the back.

Attach yarn with a sl st to the left side of the tree on row 16, ch 9 or 10, sl st to the right side of the tree on row 12, fasten off pull tail to back.

Attach yarn with a sl st to the left side of the tree on row 12, ch 12 or 13, sl st to the right side the tree on row 9, fasten off, pull tail to back.

 Attach yarn with a sl st to the left side of the tree on row 9, ch 12 or 13, sl st to the right side the tree on row 6, fasten off, pull tail to back.

Silver Bow:

For the silver bow I attached silver yarn with a sl st to the tippy top of the tree, chained between 6 to 8 chains then sl st back to the starting point. I continued making chains of 6 or 8 and attaching them to the center again until I was satisfied with the look of the bow.

Want even more?

Get the entire pattern bundle for this CAL at a major discount here! Each day you will be able to download the next square in this series!

Visit my store to purchase the fully loaded downloadable version of this pattern complete with Stitch Fiddle graph that I break down line by line, a full graph and a little tip to help with more seamless color changes!

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

Try these fun patterns too!

So what the heck is this do-hicky? This nifty little pouch is a soap sock. It can be used with bar soap or liquid soap. For bar soap, place the soap bar into the pouch and pull the string to close the opening, get wet and scrub away the day!

For liquid soap, simply apply your desired amount onto the soap sock and lather up as you like! What I love about this though, is I can use my favorite soap in bar form and not feel that icky sticky feeling of soap on my skin after. The scrubby yarn takes it right off!

This is one of my favorite patterns for so many reasons. It is easy to make. It uses the hdc, my favorite stitch. And the outcome is an item that is functional and help to clean up our planet by taking one more plastic loofa out of the landfill.

Don’t worry I wont go on and on about how liquid soap is hurting our water supplies, or that loofah and other disposable hygiene tools are going into our landfills. I will mention, however, that a soap sock is washable and dryable so you can use it over and over. Personally, I have a few that I have been using for over a year and they are still going strong!

The Story That Made It Happen

Lets see… How did the soap sock come to be?..

I was at one of my first craft fairs and a customer asked me if I had any plans for making a bar soap pouch. I really didn’t have plans for much at that point. I was in the beginning stages of my business working through the surveying stage. Doing the craft fairs was one of the ways I tested my product and skills to determine if what I was offering as a services was something that would be sustainable as a business.

I informed the customer that I was not aware of the item she spoke of but that it sounded like a great idea!

Honestly, it did take a few tries before I was truly happy with the final pattern for the soap sock. I knew I wanted it to be easy so even beginner crocheters could whip these up too. I also wanted there to be little to no seaming at the end. Scrubby yarn is hard enough to work with, never mind having to sew edges together (blahhh). In the end I am very happy with the pattern. They are fun to make and anyone I’ve given one to says they love them and use them all the time!

What makes this pattern unique?

The Soap Sock is worked all in ONE piece! Yup, that’s right, and just a small seam at the end that you can use a slip stitch for insead of having to sew.

The closing cord is another neat feature of this Soap Sock. It is incorporated into the the beginning stitches of the first round so there is not having to thread a piece of yarn or string through your stitches at the end!

What you will need

Yarn: 1 skein Scrub-ology cotton yarn; #4 weight, 100% cotton, 3oz, 125yrd

Hook(s): 5mm H-8

Yarn needle: for weaving in ends

Scissors

Let’s talk fiber!

Recently I did a column for Happily Hooked Magazine where I really dug in deep on this very topic. Click the link to see what I had to say.

When it comes to scrubby yarn for soap socks most are pretty the same. I find there are two types.

There is scrubby cotton which you can see here. For scrubby yarn it is soft and gives a nice exfoliation feeling when you wash with it.

Then there is this… 100% polyester, peel your top 3 layers of skin off yarn. Now, don’t get me wrong, I use both of types. Choosing the right scrubby yarn for your purposes is important and must be weighed and measured for the outcome is the end game. (I’m being very sarcastic here).

To put it short, if you are wanting a nice bath or shower that will leave you feeling clean and refreshed then the 100% cotton in any brand is the way to go.

However, if you want to take your exfoliation to the next level then the 100% polyester is your new friend.

Both work great for the Soap Sock and both work amazing in the bath or shower.

What you will look for between labels when substituting yarn,

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so may be more difficult to compare.

Finished measurements

Length– 5″/ 10.5cm

Width– 3.5″/ 9cm

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

St(s)- Stitch(s)

Hdc- half double crochet

Check out this amazing amiture video of working the half double crochet

Other things you should know before starting…

Numbers within < > represent the total number of stitches per row. 

Check out these other Green Living patterns

Okay, lets get to the pattern!

Row 1: We will begin with crocheting onto the cinching cord.   To do this, make your beginning slip knot with your scrubby yarn. 

Pat yourself on the back that was hard!  I like to put my bead on now to keep the stitches from sliding off. 

Pull both ends of the cotton cinching cord through the bead and tie off with a knot.  Test the knot to be sure it does not pull through the bead.  Adjust knot size accordingly

Rnd 2-15: hdc around, (25 stitches per round)

Finishing:

Tie off at the end of round 15 leaving a long enough tail to slst the bottom together.  Turn right side out, insert soap and enjoy!

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

Try these fun pattern too!

Welcome back to the wonderful world of working in the third loop! Last time we went through the beginning steps of working in the 3rd loop with the washboard washcloth.

For a quick refresher, the 3rd loop is the extras loop behind the front loop AND the back loop. I recently came across a post on Facebook where the question was asked, “is the back loop also the 3rd loop?” No! In U.S. terms this is not the same.

Lets take a look.

The same holds true for the single crochet (sc) as well.

I have also seen this referenced as the back bump and the bottom front loop when it happens to fall in the front instead of the back (we will get to this later). To keep things consistent through my designs I will always call this the 3rd loop. Also, when I write stitch using the 3rd loop it will look like this, “(whatever stitch)3lo”. For example: hdc3lo, sc3lo, dc3lo, etc. All this abbreviation says is “(whatever stitch) in the 3rd loop only. Example: half double crochet in the 3rd loop only. Please feel free to reach out for more clarification and I will do my best to help you understand this.

The Story That Made It Happen

I wish I had a great story for this one, but alas I do not. My dad, aka Papa, asked me to make him a had like they had in the store so I did. So no this pattern is not original at all, lol.

But! It is useful for getting ready for the Fall Hoodie that is due release next week!

These make great hot pads too!

What makes this pattern unique?

Ok, so I get that this pattern is not new, but there is a technique I use to almost eliminate that bulk at the top from cinching the hat at the end. Read on for more on this…

What you will need

Yarn: one skein Lion Brand, Color Made Easy; 100% acrylic, 7oz/ 200g; 247yds/ 226m. I used black

Hook(s): 6.5mm

Yarn needle

Scissors

Let’s talk fiber!

Recently I did a column for Happily Hooked Magazine where I really dug in deep on this very topic. Click the link to see what I had to say.

Color made easy by Lion Brand is a #5 bulky yarn that makes a thick hat. For Papa, this worked great. Most of his hair has migrated from his head, so a thick hat works great for him.

However, your hat may not be for someone needing that much warmth. No worries! This hat is so friendly to change up the yarn! I will give you all the tools you need to make the perfect noggin warmer for your loved one.

In my post with Happily Hooked I touched on some of my favorite yarns. I have to say that my ultimate favorite hat yarn is Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek. This #4 anti pilling yarn is so nice to work with. It’s full bodied consistency fills in the gaps that happen when crocheting. The color saturation of this yarn is also so amazing!

If you choose a different yarn from the Lion Brand Color Made Easy, be sure to measure your project. I chose not to use gauge with this pattern due to the simplicity of it, and chose to focus more on size of the hat.

What you will look for between labels when substituting yarn,

Is the weight the same?

Are the fibers similar, such as acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?

Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?

Are the recommended hook sizes the same?

Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so may be more difficult to compare.

Finished measurements

Length– 20″/ 50cm

Width– 22″/ 56cm

Kids size hat

Do you know these stitches and abbreviations?

St(s)- Stitch(s)

Ch- chain

Fhdc- foundation half double crochet

Slstflo- slip stitch front loop only

Hdc- half double crochet

Hdc3lo half double crochet 3rd loop only (see special stitches section)

Sc- single crochet

Scflo- single crochet front loop only

Special Stitches

Fhdc- foundation half double crochet; ch 2, yarn over insert hook in first ch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 1 loop (this is the base chain), yarn over pull through 3 loops (this is the half double crochet). * yarn over insert hook in base ch of previous st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 1 loop, yarn over pull through 3 loops. *

Fsc-foundation single crochet; ch 2, insert hook in first ch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 1 loop (this is the base chain), yarn over pull through 2 loops (this is the single crochet). *Insert hook in base ch of previous st, yarn over, draw through 1 loop, yarn over pull through two loops. *

Hdc3lo- half double crochet in the third loop only. Yarn over, insert your hook into the 3rd loop, draw up a loop, yarn over, pull through all loop on hook.

If you begin your pattern with a fhdc, your 3rd loop will be on the frontside of your work and not the backside. Reason for this is because there is one less turn before you start working in the 3rd loop.

The third loop of a half double crochet can be found on the back side of the stitch. When you are looking at the top of your work (Figure 1) you see the “V’s” you normally work in a hdc. Turn the edge of the work a bit more and you will see the 3rd loop just under the “V”. Figure 2 shows this from a front perspective.

Check out this amazing amature video I made to show you this stich!

Check out these other patterns that use the hdc3lo

Other things you should know before starting…

The number before the abbreviation represents how many times to work the same stitch into the appropriate stitch.  Ex: 2sc = work two single crochet into the next stitch.

The number after the abbreviation represents how many times to work one type of stitch consecutively.  Ex: sc2 = work one single crochet into each of the next two stitches.

Numbers within < > represent the total number of stitches per row. 

Stitch combos are shown within ( ) and worked into the same stitch of the previous row.

The ch-1 at the end of each row does not count as a stitch.

Alternate chain stitch instructions are given below the fhdc instructions.

This pattern is written for a 22″ circumference head. If you would like to make other sizes please see the chart below with the measurements you will need to reference.

PreemieBabyToddlerChildTweenWomanMan
9-12″14-16″16-18″18-20″20-22″21-23″22-24″
23-30.5cm35.5-40.5cm40.5-46cm45.5-21cm51-56cm53-58.5cm56-61cm
Measurements based on CYC standards

Check out this amazing amature video I made to show you this stich!

Okay, lets get to the pattern!

Row 1: fhdc55, fsc3, ch2 turn.  <60> (or work the number of stitches you need to obtain the length measurement you want)

Or, ch61, hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc54 across, sc3, slst2, ch1, turn.  <60>

Row 2: slstflo2, scflo3, hdc3lo55, ch1, turn.  <60>

Rows 3: hdc3lo55, scflo2, slstflo2, ch1, turn <60>

Rows 4-56 (approx. 22”)- repeat rows 2 and 3. <60> (work the number of rows you need to meet the width measurement you want)

Finishing:

To seam the hat, bring the two short ends together so that the last row you worked is closest to you. Slst the last row and the beginning row together. If your seam ends with the bottom of the hat, fasten off and weave in you ends. If your seam ends with the top of the hat do not fasten off, continue to the next step.

To cinch the top, determine which side your seam ended, top (go to A) or bottom (attach yarn to the top of the hat seam with a slst, move on to A).

A: If you ended the seam at the top of the hat, draw up a long loop, approximately 12” long. Using your yarn needle, draw the needle and yarn from under the fabric up through the ch1 of each row. When you reach the beginning, pull both ends of the yarn to close the top. Tie a knot to secure, weave enough of the ends to secure the yarn, cut off excess yarn.

Download Disclaimer

This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)

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