The Jellybean Jumper is inspired by the Myra Slouch Hat. While looking for alternative yarns for the Myra Slouch Hat I couldn’t help but notice how beautiful the stitch looked when I worked in the round. I decided to continue increasing the rounds until I had a yoke; it was all downhill from there!
I love the bean stitch for its simplicity, yet it has a touch of elegance when applied as a yoke with the right companion stitch to emphasize the bean stitch’s texture. Myra is a funky hat, but the Jellybean jumper is toned down and a great staple for any fall/winter closet. The body of the sweater is worked in a yarn under single crochet. When working a yarn under single crochet in the round you get a “x” effect that is so nice and really fills in the single crochet stitch.
Keep reading to see how easy this pattern is. Grab some yarn and your hook and crochet along with below!
Yarn #3 DK, I used Whims Merino Crochet Yarn; 182/ 166m; 50% Superwash Merino and 50% Nylon.
Stitch Markers at least 5; choose one color for sm1 and sm2, another color for sm3 and sm4, and a different color for a stitch marker to track the beginning of each row/ round. Sm1 and sm2 will mark one armhole, sm3 and sm4 will mark the second armhole. Using different color stitch markers for each side will help you when working the arms.
If you need to substitute with an other yarn and are not sure what to look for here are some tips...
What you will look for between labels
Is the weight the same?
Are the fibers similar, such as Acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?
Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?
Are the recommended hook sizes the same?
Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so me be more difficult to compare.
Sc- single crochet
Slst- slip stitch
Bnst- bean stitch
Yusc- yarn under single crochet
Yusc2tog- yarn under single crochet two together
Yusc- insert hook, yarn under (not over), pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all loops.
Yusc2tog: insert hook in next stitch, yarn under, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through one loop (2 loops remaining on hook), insert hook in next st, yarn under, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.
Bnst- bean stitch; (yarn over insert hook, yarn over pull up a loop) three times in the same stitch, with 7 loops on hook yarn over pull through all 7 loops (do not chain 1). When working the next row of bean stitches be sure you are working between the stitches and not into the top loops of the stitch.
Today I am sharing the most popular size with you, the 2 year. What is nice about this size is it gives you a great look in to the pattern without having to commit to a ton of yarn.
The 2 year is appropriate for children measuring 21 inches in the chest and is 14.5 inches long when completed.
You will use approximately 614 yards
Begin by working up 6 inch by 6 inch gauge swatches in the below stitches and check you tention. Adjust your tension, hook, or yarn to achieve the appropriate gauge.
Let's begin with the collar.
If your child does not like the high neck, shorten your beginning chain. This will do two things. First it will shorten the collar and second it will also give a wider less tight neck. The Jellybean Jumper is designed with a half inch to one inch of ease around the neckline. Shortening the beginning chain will take advantage of the ease built into the design.
Ch 15, I like to fold my collar over, you can add or subtract chains to adjust the height of your collar
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, Sc across, ch1, turn.
Row 2-48: Scblo across, ch1, turn. At the end of the last row, ch1, turn. Join the short ends by working a sc into the beginning chain and the back loop of the last row at the same time. Repeat across to complete the collar, ch1.
Do not be concerned if your bean stitches begin to waffle, this is normal and they will relax the further on you go
Rnd 1: sc in each row end of collar ribbing, sl st to beg ch-1, ch1, turn. <48>
Rnd 2: bnst in 1st st (directly below the ch1), bnst 6, 2 bnst in next. *Bnst 7, 2 bnst in next*; repeat from * to * around. Sl st to the top of 1st bnst, ch1 turn. <60>
Rnd 3: bnst in 1st st (directly below the ch1), bnst 7 ), 2 bnst in next. *Bnst 8, 2 bnst in next*; repeat from * to * around. Sl st to the top of 1st bnst, ch1 turn. <60>
Rnd 4: bnst in 1st st, bnst 8, 2 bnst in next. *Bnst 9, 2 bnst in next*; repeat from * to * around. Sl st to the top of 1st bnst, ch1 turn. <66>
Rnd 5: bnst in 1st st, bnst 9, 2 bnst in next. *Bnst 10, 2 bnst in next*; repeat from * to * around. Sl st to the top of the beginning bnst, ch1 turn. <72>
(if your stitches begin to pull too much, either go up a hook size for this round, or loosen your tension)
Rnd 6: (place sm to mark the beginning of the rnd), *yusc in top of 1st bnst, yusc in next stitch space (between bean stitches just as you did when working the bean stitch rounds). *; repeat from * to * around, do not sl st, do not turn. <144>
Continue to move the sm as you complete rounds.
Rnd 7: *yusc 11, 2yusc in next*; repeat from * to * around. <156>
Rnd 8: *yusc 12, *yusc, 12, 2yusc in next*; repeat from * to * around. <168>
Working in continuous rounds yusc in each st around. Continue to move the sm as you complete rounds. At the end of the last round move on to “Splitting the Yoke”.
Rnd 19: place sm1, chain 1. Skip 36, sl st to next st, place sm2; yusc in same st. Yusc 48, sl st to next st, place sm3; chain 1. Skip 36, sl st to next st, place sm4; yusc in same st. Yusc 48; place sm to mark the beginning of the row. <98>
STOP: Try the yoke on, be sure you are happy with the length of the yoke and the size of the armholes. If you need more length in the armholes, work more rounds of yusc. If you need larger arm holes, add more chains under the arms. If anything is too large, remove chains to make armholes smaller, or remove rounds to make the armholes shorter.
Rnds 20-65: yusc in each stitch around including the underarm chains. At the end of the last round do not fasten off continue to the Bottom Ribbing.
Sl st in the next st; chain 10 or desired length.
Row 1: Sc in each ch across, sl st to the next 2 sts of the body, turn.
Row 2: Skip two sl sts. Scblo across, ch1, turn.
Row 3: Scblo across, sl st to next 2 unworked sts of the body, turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 around. Sl st the beginning chain to the back loops of the last row. Fasten off, weave in ends.
Be sure the sweater is facing right side out (x’s should be showing). Attach yarn at sm1.
Rnd 1: yusc in same space and around the arm opening. Do not sl st to the beginning. <37> if you adjusted anything when splitting the yoke then your stitch counts may be different.
Rnd 2: yusc2tog at sm1, yusc to across to sm2, yusc2tog at sm2, (move sm1 and sm2 to the center of the yusc2tog’s). <35>
Rnd 3: Yusc around. (Move sm1 and sm2 to the next round marking the first stitch of each decrease)
Rnds 4-18: Repeat rnds 2 and 3, (when your stitch markers come together and you can no longer decrease by 2, then work just 1 yusc2tog, or stop decreasing and work round 3)
Rnds 19-36: repeat rnd 3. Add or subtract rounds to adjust length.
Sl st in next st; chain 10 or desired length.
Row 1: Sc in each st across, sl st to the next 2 sts from the body, turn.
Row 2: Skip two sl sts. Scblo into last sc from previous row. Sc across, ch1, turn.
Row 3: Scblo across, sl st to next 2 unworked stitch of the body. Sl st next, turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 around. Slst beginning chain to the back loops of the last row. Fasten off, weave in ends.
Remove all stitch markers. Weave in all ends and enjoy!!!!
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