Have you ever seen a Mimosa Tree? It is a fast growing tree that flowers late in the spring early summer. They produce these very pretty feathery pinkish flowers that the hummingbirds go crazy for! Below you will find the pattern for the Spring Blossom’s Blanket square number 1.
The Morning Mimosa’s square is worked in the round. So you will begin making a circle then will convert that circle into a square. This is a great pattern to start learning colorwork and shape conversions. I hope you enjoy this square and please feel free to contact me at faydra@knottiehooks.com with any questions you may have! Have fun!
So, how did this pattern come to be? Well it started out much different. When I first designed this square I used stitch fiddle and it had all these spindles all over the place and quite frankly it looked really scary. As a crochet designer I was dreading making what I designed which, obviously, is not a good place to be. Here is the picture of the original
Scary right!? That's when I decided that this square was going to have to be worked from scratch the old school way. I grabbed my hook, I grabbed my yarn, and off I went. The result was better than I originally thought it would be
Here is a side by side of the real thing and my vision of it. What do ya think?
So what makes this pattern unique is how it begins as a circle then expands and converts into a square. This gave me a way to work a semi circular flower yet still be able to have the square shape for the blanket in the end.
Yarn:
1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in bubble gum
1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in cream
1 skein KnitPicks Mighty Stitch in alfalfa
1-2 yarns of any yellow yarn you have lying around.
Hook(s): 4mm
Yarn needle
Scissors
Stitch Markers: Optional but not necessary for tracking the end of each round.
If you need to substitute with an other yarn and are not sure what to look for here are some tips...
What you will look for between labels
Is the weight the same?
Are the fibers similar, such as Acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?
Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?
Are the recommended hook sizes the same?
Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so me be more difficult to compare.
St- stitches
Beg- beginning
Sk- skip stitch(s)
Ch- Chain
Slst- slip stitch
Mc- magic circle (click to see video tutorial)
Dc-double crochet
Sc- single crochet
Hdc- half double crochet
Fptc- front post treble crochetfront post treble crochet; yarn over two times. Working from the front, insert hook behind the post of the stitch instructed, yarn over pull up a loop yarn over pull through two loops, yarn over pull through the last two loops.
Rnd- round
The square is worked in single rounds. You will slip stitch to the beginning chain after each round unless specified otherwise.
The chain at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.
The number before the abbreviation represents how many times to work the same stitch into the instructed st from the previous round. Ex: 2sc = work two single crochet into the next stitch.
The number after the abbreviation represents how many times to work one type of stitch into consecutive stitches from the previous round. Ex: sc 2 = work one single crochet into each of the next two stitches.
Color changes are indicated by the abbreviations for each color described in the special stitches section below. I will not tell you to change color. You will see the stitch to come next with the color incorporated in the abbreviation, so be sure to look ahead to see what color comes next.
Use the color changing method you prefer most. If color changing is new to you there are many tutorials on you tube.
A brief explanation of color changing is: when working that last part of the indicated stitch. Insert hook draw up a loop, (do not yarn over with the same color to finish the stitch) finish the stitch with the appropriate color according to the pattern, i.e. the new color.
New stitch totals for each round are found between ( ).
Stitches separated by a dash are worked all in the same stitch.
Exp- sc-ch1-sc= single crochet 1, chain 1, single crochet 1; all in the same stitch.
Scw- single crochet with cream. Crochet using this color when instructed using your preferred color changing method.
Scp- single crochet with pink (bubble gum). Crochet using this color when instructed using your preferred color changing method.
Scg- single crochet with green. Crochet using this color when instructed using your preferred color changing method.
Dcw- double crochet with cream Crochet using this color when instructed using your preferred color changing method.
Dcp- double crochet with pink Crochet using this color when instructed using your preferred color changing method.
Dcg- double crochet with alfalfa Crochet using this color when instructed using your preferred color changing method.
Hdcw- half double crochet with cream
16 st x 20 rows of sc= 4X4” 10cm
W- 8”
H- 8”
Using a 4mm hook and pink yarn:
Begin with a magic circle (go to https://youtu.be/lkGu7aI7tVs to see the video tutorial).
Rnd1- into mc ch2, dcp8, dcg4. Slst with pink to beg, (12).
Rnd2- ch2, 2dcp in the next 8sts, 2dcw in the next 2sts, dcg1, 2dcw in next, dcw1. Slst with cream to beg (24).
Rnd3- ch2, *dcw, 2dcw*, repeat from * to * around; slst to beg (36)
Rnd4- ch2, *dcw, fptc with pink the dc from 2rnds down, 2dcw in next*; repeat from * to * 8x’s. *Dcw2, 2dcw*; repeat from * to * 4x’s, slst to beg (48).
Rnd5- ch2, *dcw3, 2dcw*; repeat from * to* around, slst to beg (60).
Rnd6- ch2 *dcw3, fptc with pink the dc from 2rnds down, 2dcw*; repeat from * to * 8x’s. *Dcw4, 2dcw*; repeat from * to * 4x’s, slst to beg (72).
Rnd7- ch2, dcw3, hdcw3, scw6, hdcw3; *dcw2, dcw-ch1-dcw (corner made), dcw2, hdcw3, scw6, hdcw3*; repeat from * to * 3x’s (72).
Rnd8- ch2, dcw, *hdcw2, scw14, hdcw2, dcw-ch1-dcw; repeat from * to * 3x’s; hdcw2, scw14, dcw-ch-slst to beg dc (82).
Rnd9- ch2, dcw, *hdcw, scw16, hdcw, dcw-ch1-dcw*; repeat from * to * 3x’s; hdcw, scw16, dcw-ch-slst to beg dc (86).
Rnd10- ch2, dcw2, *hdcw2, scw15, hdcw2, dcw2-ch1-dcw2*; repeat from * to * 3x’s; hdcw2, scw15, hdcw2, dcw2-ch-slst to beg dcw (96).
Rnd11- ch2, dcw2, *dcw22, dcw2-ch1-dcw2*; repeat from * to * 3x’s; dcw22, dcw2-ch1-slst to beg dcw (108).
Rnd12- ch2, dcw2, *scw24, dcw2-ch1-dcw2*; repeat from * to * 3x’s, scw22, dcw2-ch1-slst to beg dcw. (114). Fasten off and weave in ends.
The rest of the pattern is worked in embroidery.
Using a yarn needle attach a long strand of pink to the back side of your work on the left of the last spindle (the fptc).
working from back to front insert your needle at the base of the flower, the top of rnd2, reach the yarn up to the top of the next rnd insert your needle and pull through being cautious not to pull the yarn tail through from the back side.
Working from the backside, insert your needle at the top of the next rnd up, pull through, then insert your needle into the top of rnd below, pull through. Repeat from * to * until your new spindle is the same height as the others.
Adding the yellow tips
Using the same method as above, make X’s at the top of each spindle using yellow yarn, any worsted weight yellow yarn works fine.
Visit my store to purchase the downloadable version of this pattern complete with photo tutorials.
This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)
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