Welcome back to the wonderful world of working in the third loop! Last time we went through the beginning steps of working in the 3rd loop with the washboard washcloth.
For a quick refresher, the 3rd loop is the extras loop behind the front loop AND the back loop. I recently came across a post on Facebook where the question was asked, “is the back loop also the 3rd loop?” No! In U.S. terms this is not the same.
Lets take a look.
The same holds true for the single crochet (sc) as well.
I have also seen this referenced as the back bump and the bottom front loop when it happens to fall in the front instead of the back (we will get to this later). To keep things consistent through my designs I will always call this the 3rd loop. Also, when I write stitch using the 3rd loop it will look like this, “(whatever stitch)3lo”. For example: hdc3lo, sc3lo, dc3lo, etc. All this abbreviation says is “(whatever stitch) in the 3rd loop only. Example: half double crochet in the 3rd loop only. Please feel free to reach out for more clarification and I will do my best to help you understand this.
I wish I had a great story for this one, but alas I do not. My dad, aka Papa, asked me to make him a had like they had in the store so I did. So no this pattern is not original at all, lol.
But! It is useful for getting ready for the Fall Hoodie that is due release next week!
Ok, so I get that this pattern is not new, but there is a technique I use to almost eliminate that bulk at the top from cinching the hat at the end. Read on for more on this…
Yarn: one skein Lion Brand, Color Made Easy; 100% acrylic, 7oz/ 200g; 247yds/ 226m. I used black
Recently I did a column for Happily Hooked Magazine where I really dug in deep on this very topic. Click the link to see what I had to say.
Color made easy by Lion Brand is a #5 bulky yarn that makes a thick hat. For Papa, this worked great. Most of his hair has migrated from his head, so a thick hat works great for him.
However, your hat may not be for someone needing that much warmth. No worries! This hat is so friendly to change up the yarn! I will give you all the tools you need to make the perfect noggin warmer for your loved one.
In my post with Happily Hooked I touched on some of my favorite yarns. I have to say that my ultimate favorite hat yarn is Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek. This #4 anti pilling yarn is so nice to work with. It’s full bodied consistency fills in the gaps that happen when crocheting. The color saturation of this yarn is also so amazing!
If you choose a different yarn from the Lion Brand Color Made Easy, be sure to measure your project. I chose not to use gauge with this pattern due to the simplicity of it, and chose to focus more on size of the hat.
Is the weight the same?
Are the fibers similar, such as acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?
Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?
Are the recommended hook sizes the same?
Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so may be more difficult to compare.
Length– 20″/ 50cm
Width– 22″/ 56cm
Fhdc- foundation half double crochet
Slstflo- slip stitch front loop only
Fhdc- foundation half double crochet; ch 2, yarn over insert hook in first ch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 1 loop (this is the base chain), yarn over pull through 3 loops (this is the half double crochet). * yarn over insert hook in base ch of previous st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 1 loop, yarn over pull through 3 loops. *
Fsc-foundation single crochet; ch 2, insert hook in first ch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 1 loop (this is the base chain), yarn over pull through 2 loops (this is the single crochet). *Insert hook in base ch of previous st, yarn over, draw through 1 loop, yarn over pull through two loops. *
Hdc3lo- half double crochet in the third loop only. Yarn over, insert your hook into the 3rd loop, draw up a loop, yarn over, pull through all loop on hook.
If you begin your pattern with a fhdc, your 3rd loop will be on the frontside of your work and not the backside. Reason for this is because there is one less turn before you start working in the 3rd loop.
The third loop of a half double crochet can be found on the back side of the stitch. When you are looking at the top of your work (Figure 1) you see the “V’s” you normally work in a hdc. Turn the edge of the work a bit more and you will see the 3rd loop just under the “V”. Figure 2 shows this from a front perspective.
The number before the abbreviation represents how many times to work the same stitch into the appropriate stitch. Ex: 2sc = work two single crochet into the next stitch.
The number after the abbreviation represents how many times to work one type of stitch consecutively. Ex: sc2 = work one single crochet into each of the next two stitches.
Numbers within < > represent the total number of stitches per row.
Stitch combos are shown within ( ) and worked into the same stitch of the previous row.
The ch-1 at the end of each row does not count as a stitch.
Alternate chain stitch instructions are given below the fhdc instructions.
This pattern is written for a 22″ circumference head. If you would like to make other sizes please see the chart below with the measurements you will need to reference.
Row 1: fhdc55, fsc3, ch2 turn. <60> (or work the number of stitches you need to obtain the length measurement you want)
Or, ch61, hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc54 across, sc3, slst2, ch1, turn. <60>
Row 2: slstflo2, scflo3, hdc3lo55, ch1, turn. <60>
Rows 3: hdc3lo55, scflo2, slstflo2, ch1, turn <60>
Rows 4-56 (approx. 22”)- repeat rows 2 and 3. <60> (work the number of rows you need to meet the width measurement you want)
To seam the hat, bring the two short ends together so that the last row you worked is closest to you. Slst the last row and the beginning row together. If your seam ends with the bottom of the hat, fasten off and weave in you ends. If your seam ends with the top of the hat do not fasten off, continue to the next step.
To cinch the top, determine which side your seam ended, top (go to A) or bottom (attach yarn to the top of the hat seam with a slst, move on to A).
A: If you ended the seam at the top of the hat, draw up a long loop, approximately 12” long. Using your yarn needle, draw the needle and yarn from under the fabric up through the ch1 of each row. When you reach the beginning, pull both ends of the yarn to close the top. Tie a knot to secure, weave enough of the ends to secure the yarn, cut off excess yarn.
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