Welcome to the wonderfull world of working in the third loop! There are so magical things we can do with this technique and we will talk about a few of them today.
About a year ago I was really into making things that would help out around the home. I still am to some extent but with my ever continuing trip down the rabbit hole that is top down crochet, my attention has been a little diverted from homegoods.
However! Last year I did really well at craft fairs and holiday markets and these little cloths were one of my best sellers. What I love best about them is that they work up so quickly, are easy to make any size, and can be used for so many things. As you can see from the picture here.
If you want to become proficient in this technique and have something useful after this is the perfect pattern!
Absolutely nothing… Moving on
Yarn: less than one skein of 100% cotton #4 medium weight yarn. I used “I Love This Cotton”, 100% cotton, 3.5 oz, #4 medium, in color taupe
Ahhhh, yes… the wonderfull world of that is cotton yarn.
As I mentioned above I use I love this cotton from Hobby Lobby. What I like best about this yarn is that it is so soft, but still very absorbent. The downside to it is that it needs to be primed on the first use. Meaning you will have to soak it and squeeze it to get it to absorb the first time you use it.
Cotton yarn such as “Sugar and Cream” is thicker and will result in a larger washcloth in the end. So if you choose this type of yarn you will have to adjust your beginning number of stitches if you want your cloth to be the exact same size as mine.
Personally, I would stay away from anything other than 100% cotton. I have found that cotton blend yarns are less absorbent, and do not tighten as well after washing with the laundry.
Also, if you choose to use these handy dandy squares as a trivet or hot pad, please please, be super careful if you choose synthetic yarns such as acrylic. There is some debate about this, however, acrylic inevitably will melt with enough heat.
Is the weight the same?
Are the fibers similar, such as acrylic, wool, alpaca, nylon, etc.?
Is the gauge similar or close enough to make it work?
Are the recommended hook sizes the same?
Another piece of information you can look for is the number of wpi (wraps per inch). This information is not always available so may be more difficult to compare.
22 hdc3lo X 8 rows = 4X4” 10cm
To make a swatch, fhdc 22 (or chain 23, hdc in 2nd chain of the hook and across, ch1 turn). *Hdc3lo in each stitch across, ch1 turn.* Continue working the repeat from * to * until you have 6 inches of rows. Measure your 4″ of stitches and rows within this swatch.
Length– 6”; 15cm
Width– 6”; 15cm
Fhdc- foundation half double crochet
Fhdc- foundation half double crochet; ch 2, yarn over, insert hook in first ch, yarn over, draw through, ch 1 (this is the foundation ch), yarn over, draw through all loops on hook. *Yarn over, insert hook in base ch of previous st, yarn over, draw through, ch 1 (base ch made), yarn over, draw through all loops on hook.
Hdc3lo- half double crochet in the third loop only. Yarn over, insert your hook into the 3rd loop, draw up a loop, yarn over, pull through all loop on hook.
If you begin your pattern with a fhdc, your 3rd loop will be on the frontside of your work and not the backside. Reason for this is because there is one less turn before you start working in the 3rd loop.
The third loop of a half double crochet can be found on the back side of the stitch. When you are looking at the top of your work (Figure 1) you see the “V’s” you normally work in a hdc. Turn the edge of the work a bit more and you will see the 3rd loop just under the “V”. Figure 2 shows this from a front perspective.
The number before the abbreviation represents how many times to work the same stitch into the appropriate stitch. Ex: 2sc = work two single crochet into the next stitch.
The number after the abbreviation represents how many times to work one type of stitch consecutively. Ex: sc2 = work one single crochet into each of the next two stitches.
Numbers within < > represent the total number of stitches per row.
Stitch combos are shown within ( ) and worked into the same stitch of the previous row.
The ch-1 at the end of each row does not count as a stitch.
Alternate chain stitch instructions are given below the fhdc instructions.
Row 1: fhdc32, ch1 turn. <32>
• Ch33, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc across, ch1, turn. <32>
Row 2: hdc3lo across, ch1, turn. <32>
Rows 3- 15: repeat row 2, at the end of row 15 do not fasten off.
To make the loop, fhdc 15. Bring your hook back to the last stitch of row 15, sl st to that stitch. Fasten off, weave in ends and love your new washcloth!
Or, at the end of row 15, ch15, sl st the chain to the last st of row 15. Fasten off, weave in ends. You’re done!
This pattern and its pictures are the property of Knottie Hooks. You are welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link if you sell your finished items online back to the original pattern source. Use #knottiehooks and tag me @knottiehooks. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)
This pattern was Tech Edited by Fiat Fiber Arts and tested by volunteers pattern testers.
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